Lunar II Build Guide
- Part 1 - Begin here
- Part 2 - Pre-build preparations
- Part 3 - Assembling the board
- Part 4 - Keymap editing and closing words
Part 1 - Begin here
Thank you for your purchase!
We’ve done our best to make a board fit for both novice and experienced Alps users alike.
To get the best out of it, it is important to assemble it correctly.
This build guide outlines the exact steps to take to get it built.
Warning: Damage, imperfections, etc. due to disregarding the build guide instructions cannot be accounted for. We won’t be able to refund or replace parts if you decide to build it by gut instinct and mess up somewhere.
What’s in the box
- The Lunar II case, plate, and PCB,
- A set of rubber feet,
- A set of O-rings,
- Hex keys for the case screws (1.5mm size),
- The solenoid and its accessories (pin header and pin socket),
- Packaging material.
If anything is missing, please let us know immediately and we'll supply it as soon as possible.
Parts and tools necessary for building
- Enough switches to cover your preferred layout, tested to function,
- Stabilizers for the larger keys,
- A set of AEK or AEKII keycaps,
- A USB-C cable,
- Soldering equipment.
Skills necessary for installation of the solenoid
- Enough soldering skill to solder a 90 degree pin header parallel to a PCB,
- Enough soldering skill to solder wires onto the leads of a pin socket,
- Either careful hand control or tools to carefully lower the solenoid into place prior to securement with adhesive.
Tools that aren’t required but are (extremely) useful
- A pair of tweezers,
- Soldering helping hands,
- Some sort of desoldering equipment in case mistakes are made.
Before we begin
Just a few quick heads up regarding some things you should know.
- Refrain from wiping down the board with strong chemicals such as isopropyl alcohol, especially for the weight. This will ruin the matte coat and leave you with a semi-glossy, tarnishing, tacky mess.
- Both the case and USB port have extensive ESD protection circuitry; however, they are not fail-safes (e.g. it isn't ideal to set a house on fire even if it has a powerful sprinkler system). Take care to discharge any excess static buildup before use, especially during building or disassembling when the PCB circuitry is exposed.
- Do not overtighten the screws. Overtightening risks destroying the board as well as causing nasty acoustics such as excessive pinging.
- Read through the build guide once before actually carrying through with it, so you have a good idea of what’s upcoming at the next step. You can navigate the book using the panel on the left (large screens) or in the info tab (mobile), or use the link at the end of each part.
Part 2 - Pre-build preparations
Before assembling the board, there are a few things to check.
- If not already done, double-check that all the contents of the package listed in part 1 are actually included in the box. It's a nightmare if you get partway through the build and realize a part is missing.
- Plug in the PCB, and verify that it detects as a device.
Make sure there are no broken-off components rattling around in the bag.
- Check for any major external flaws that would disqualify the board as an A-stock unit (if you have purchased a regular unit rather than B-stock).
The above are important because replacement warranty of the board covers only units in unbuilt condition; if you spot any issues, please contact us for a replacement before building the board.
- In addition, test every single switch you are using for this build, and verify that they conduct if and only if pressed using a multimeter or similar.
It is an absolute nightmare to have to desolder the entire board just to replace one faulty switch, and excess heat is known to damage these vintage switches.
Once all are checked and ready, it's time to build.
Part 3 - Assembling the board
Let's begin with the case.