Vega Build Guide
- Part 1 - Begin here
- Part 2 - Pre-build preparations
- Part 3 - Preparing the case
- Part 4 - Assembling the internals
- Part 5 - Putting it all together
- Part 6 - Keymap editing and closing words
Part 1 - Begin here
Thank you for your purchase!
We’ve done our best to put in everything we know into this board.
To get the best out of it, it is important to assemble it correctly.
This build guide outlines the exact steps to take to get it built.
Warning: Damage, imperfections, etc. due to disregarding the build guide instructions cannot be accounted for. We won’t be able to refund or replace parts if you decide to build it by gut instinct and mess up somewhere.
What’s in the box
- The Vega case, plate, and PCB,
- A set of long gaskets,
- A set of short gaskets,
- A set of small rectangular gaskets,
- The foam layers, one for above the PCB and two for below the PCB,
- A wafer of stabilizer shims (break apart as necessary),
- A large Torx key and a small Torx key (T10 and T6 respectively),
- Some rubber feet,
- A lot of custom cut packing foam,
- The piece of paper warning everyone to read the build guide.
If anything is missing, please let us know immediately and we'll supply it as soon as possible.
Parts and tools necessary for building
- Enough switches to cover your preferred layout, likely lubed and tuned,
- Stabilizers for all the larger keys of your preferred layout,
- Keycaps of your choice,
- A USB-C cable which follows USB spec,
- Soldering equipment if you purchased the soldering kit.
Tools that aren’t required but are useful
- A pair of flat-head pliers,
- Some sort of desoldering equipment (if you purchased a soldering kit).
Before we begin
Just a few quick heads up regarding some things you should know.
- Refrain from wiping down the board with strong chemicals such as 90+% isopropyl alcohol, especially for the weight. This will ruin the matte coat and leave you with a semi-glossy tacky mess.
The weight can handle a lighter alcohol mix for cleaning off the surface out of the box; however, please don't do this at too high of a frequency or with too strong of a chemical for the risk of coating damage. - Both the case and USB port have extensive ESD protection circuitry; however, they are not fail-safes (e.g. it isn't ideal to set a house on fire even if it has a powerful sprinkler system). Take care to discharge any excess static buildup before use, especially during building or disassembling when the PCB circuitry is exposed and unprotected.
- Do not overtighten the screws. Simply stop when the screws want to stop; overtightening risks destroying the board as well as causing nasty acoustics such as excessive pinging.
- There seems to be an occasional faulty Torx key among the batches; if your included Torx key has trouble removing a screw, use a third-party driver of the correct size (T6 for case/plate screws) and of decent quality. In addition, make sure that the driver is thin enough that it doesn't chip away at the inner sides of the case.
- Read through the build guide once before actually carrying through with it, so you have a good idea of what’s upcoming at the next step. You can navigate the book using the panel on the left (large screens) or in the info tab (mobile), or use the link at the end of each part.
- The custom cut foam and box is useful for storing and/or reselling the board. We recommend that you keep it for board safekeeping and transit; otherwise please recycle the box for the sake of our planet.
Ready?
Let's begin.
Part 2 - Pre-build preparations
Before assembling the board, there are a few things to check.
- Check for any major external flaws that would disqualify the board as an A-stock unit (if you have purchased a regular unit rather than B-stock).
If you have any flaws on the case that require a replacement, do not continue further and contact us immediately. We can't handle RMA units if the board has been built as per the return policy, so keep everything unused. - If not already done, double-check that all the contents of the package listed in part 1 are actually included in the box. It's a nightmare if you get partway through the build and realize a part is missing.
- Plug in the PCB, and verify that it detects as a device.
Make sure there are no broken-off hotswap sockets or USB connectors rattling around in the bag.
Note: If you are testing key functionality at this stage, do note that the caps lock position is bound to Fn by default, and will not send a keystroke on its own. Instead, hold the caps lock position and press the numrow, and see if it sends F1~F12 rather than numerics.
This is important because replacement warranty of the board covers only units in unbuilt condition; if you spot any issues, please contact us for a replacement before building the board.
Once all are checked and ready, it's time to prepare the case.
Part 3 - Preparing the case
Let's begin with the case.
- Remove the components from the box if not already done.
- Of the two supplied hex keys, use the smaller one to unscrew the case screws.
- Remove the top case half, and flip it upside down.
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Unscrew and remove the temporary plate screws.
- Remove the plate from the case top half.
- At this point, the case should be disassembled enough for switch installation.
Prepare the plate and adhesive gaskets.
- Carefully place 5 of the long gaskets onto the plate, one per tab.
Note: For the minority who are planning on using aftermarket custom plates, install these gaskets on the case area where the plate tabs overlap; this applies to all gasket steps. For specific warnings and instructions, see here.
- Repeat on the underside; there should be 10 gaskets installed at the end of this step.
- Now prepare the sheet of shorter gaskets.
Carefully place 6 of these on the marked tabs.
- Repeat the process on the underside; there should be 22 total gaskets installed at the end of this step.
- Set the completed plate aside.
Prepare the case top half and the small rectangular gaskets.
- Place a rectangular gasket horizontally between the marked indents on the side as shown.
Repeat on both sides.
- Install four more of these rectangular gaskets in the corner wells as shown, one per corner.
By the end of this step, the top case half is complete and ready for assembly.
Set the top half aside. - Prepare the bottom case half.
Install the provided rubber feet into the inserts.
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If no screw was inserted into the PCB-conducting screw position out of the box, install this screw.
Use one of the regular silver screws from the hotswap hardware kit for this task.
The case is now fully prepared for assembly.
Now it is time to assemble the internals.
Part 4 - Assembling the internals
- Prepare and tune the stabilizers needed for your preferred layout, if not done already.
Prepare and lube the switches as well. - Mount the stabilizers onto the PCB using the provided shims to fill the gap on the thin PCB.
The side with the copper artwork (logo) should face away from the PCB.
An example of shim use is shown below; the shim goes on the bottomside of the PCB, with the hook of the stabilizer hooking both the shim and the PCB.
Note: The pictured shim is an earlier revision; however, its usage remains the same.
- Open the pack of hotswap standoffs and screws.
For hotswap users who plan to swap switches in the future without case disassembly: Install a standoff at each of the 9 standoff screw holes on the PCB, and secure using the short hotswap screws from the bottom.
For users with an aluminum plate: Install one standoff at the standoff screw hole on the PCB marked "PLATE", and secure using a short hotswap screw from the bottom. This is necessary to properly handle static discharges that occur against the plate.
For all other users: You may leave the standoffs unused for softest typing feel if wanted. However, please note the following:
- The PCB may begin to slide off after very extended use, at which point you may need to re-seat the PCB against the switches by pushing it back into place.
- Swapping switches will require case disassembly to firmly seat the switches against the PCB.
For securing these standoffs, install cylindrical head screws from the other side provided in the same hotswap hardware kit package.
- If you plan to use the foam midlayer, install it above the PCB at this stage.
Our personal recommendation is to install it if you prefer a calmer/more muted sound; if you dislike it, it is always possible to rebuild it without on the hotswap variant.
- Install the plate so that the screw holes on the plate align with the standoffs and stabilizers installed onto the PCB.
- Secure the plate to the standoffs using the countersunk hotswap screws for any standoffs used.
- Place the assembled plate-PCB structure into the top case half, making sure that the plate goes within the vertical rectangular gaskets placed onto the top case half.
Secure this structure to the top using the temporary plate screws.
- Prepare to install switches.
First, take the switch and flip it upside down.
Check for any sort of bent legs, and repair them by bending them back to be straight.
The following are examples of switches with bent legs.
Notice how the one on the right has a bent tip despite the rest of the leg being straight.
Either has the ability to destroy a hotswap socket; make sure to catch them before they enter the socket.
- Some switches are known to have very thick PCB-mount legs which exceed MX spec heavily, such as Gaterons.
For these switches, it is highly recommended to thin the legs by compressing them with flat head pliers prior to installation.
This can be done by closing the pliers against a leg and twisting it around to crunch the leg down.
Note: Do not apply forces so extreme that the switch shatters.
- After un-bending the legs with fingers, tweezers, flat pliers, or your tool of choice, carefully insert them to the plate-PCB structure.
Hold the PCB surrounding the switch and push the switch firmly down, making sure that the switch snaps into the plate and is firmly seated against the PCB.
Make sure the orientation is correct: On the hotswap PCB, the keys 7 and 8 next to the USB connector are flipped to avoid obstructing the USB port.
- Repeat steps 7~9 for all switches.
If assembling a soldering kit, solder the switches. Make sure that the switch is seated firmly against the PCB once soldered.
- At this stage, it is highly recommended to connect the build to a computer and to verify that all keys send a keystroke.
Note: The caps lock position is bound to Fn by default, and will not send a keystroke on its own. Instead, hold the caps lock position and press the numrow, and see if it sends F1~F12 rather than numerics. - Flip the structure over, and remove the temporary plate retention screws.
Leave the assembly upside-down at this stage.
- Install one of the provided grey conductive foam pads atop the exposed copper pad marked "CASE" on the PCB.
That was a lengthy section, but most of the hassle is out of the way at this point.
Now to complete the assembly.
Part 5 - Putting it all together
- Prepare the prepared top-plate-PCB-switch assembly from the end of the previous page.
Double-check that the temporary plate retention screws have been removed, and insert the bottom case half.
If you plan to use the bottom foam layers, install them before inserting the lid. Our personal recommendation is one sheet to begin; adjust as necessary after testing.
Installing both layers will stiffen the typing feel and add its character to the sound noticeably, while zero layers leaves sound completely untouched in that regard.
- Flip the board, and install the case screws.
- Install the keycaps of your choice, connect to a computer, and verify that it works.
Note: The caps lock position is bound to Fn by default, and will not send a keystroke on its own. Instead, hold the caps lock position and press the numrow, and see if it sends F1~F12 rather than numerics.
Congratulations! You have fully assembled the Vega.